We traveled this summer to the renowned French Laundry restaurant, to enjoy the spectacular cuisine served at the birthplace of “New American” cuisine.
Actually, that’s a total lie.
We went to the French Laundry and had great meals, all right. But the restaurant of that name we visited is in Fenton, Michigan, a town outside the culinary capital of…Flint.
French Laundry, Fenton, Michigan. Courtesy John Ransom, http://www.johnransom.com
While Fenton is a fairly affluent and sophisticated area, even there the restaurant is an extraordinary outlier. Located in a wittily renovated cinder-block [!] stand-alone building, it’s designed and decorated with an unerring eye.
The low main dining room roof is extended upward with a low shaft of multi-colored glass windows. The tables and chairs are tastefully mismatched; coffee cups are thrift-shop cast-offs. The staff wear black. The vibe is stylish fun. Photos.
But go for the food.
Okay, the chef is not Alice Waters [New American cuisine doyenne and founder of the “other” French Laundry in Napa, California]. But it’s still spectacularly good. It’s American, with a mix of comfort-food, French and [yes] New American twists. A few favorites:
Butter and Salame
Slices of hard salami; smear them with butter. You may need a nitro-glycerine chaser, but it’s a wonderful meal-starter.
Chimichurri Pork Tenderloin
Served with a sweet Argentian-style sauce
Turkey Meatloaf
Neither a camp resurrection nor a precious elevation, it’s a hearty, nostalgic dish made with the usual ingredients plus a few chopped vegetables, high-end cheddar and a touch of Dijon mustard.
Blackened Grouper
Sweet, flaky fish with a spicy coat, topped with homemade salsa and a side of beans and rice.
Creme Brulee
Served in low dish, its body is a near-perfect mix of egg and cream flavors, the top a delicate pane of sweetness that yields easily to the spoon.
Michigan’s economic troubles notwithstanding, The French Laundry isn’t cheap. Dinner entrees average $20; there’s a good wine list and some smart matches on the menu. Lunches and breakfasts will cost you $10 to $15 per person.
No, it’s not worth a visit to the greater Detroit/Flint/Ann Arbor/Lansing-ish region just for a meal there. But if you find yourself in that part of the country, it’s worth a special trip. Map.
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