We traveled this summer to the renowned French Laundry restaurant, to enjoy the spectacular cuisine served at the birthplace of “New American” cuisine.
Actually, that’s a total lie.
We went to the French Laundry and had great meals, all right. But the restaurant of that name we visited is in Fenton, Michigan, a town outside the culinary capital of…Flint.
French Laundry, Fenton, Michigan. Courtesy John Ransom, http://www.johnransom.com
While Fenton is a fairly affluent and sophisticated area, even there the restaurant is an extraordinary outlier. Located in a wittily renovated cinder-block [!] stand-alone building, it’s designed and decorated with an unerring eye.
The low main dining room roof is extended upward with a low shaft of multi-colored glass windows. The tables and chairs are tastefully mismatched; coffee cups are thrift-shop cast-offs. The staff wear black. The vibe is stylish fun. Photos.
But go for the food.
Okay, the chef is not Alice Waters [New American cuisine doyenne and founder of the “other” French Laundry in Napa, California]. But it’s still spectacularly good. It’s American, with a mix of comfort-food, French and [yes] New American twists. A few favorites:
Butter and Salame
Slices of hard salami; smear them with butter. You may need a nitro-glycerine chaser, but it’s a wonderful meal-starter.
Chimichurri Pork Tenderloin
Served with a sweet Argentian-style sauce
Turkey Meatloaf
Neither a camp resurrection nor a precious elevation, it’s a hearty, nostalgic dish made with the usual ingredients plus a few chopped vegetables, high-end cheddar and a touch of Dijon mustard.
Blackened Grouper
Sweet, flaky fish with a spicy coat, topped with homemade salsa and a side of beans and rice.
Creme Brulee
Served in low dish, its body is a near-perfect mix of egg and cream flavors, the top a delicate pane of sweetness that yields easily to the spoon.
Michigan’s economic troubles notwithstanding, The French Laundry isn’t cheap. Dinner entrees average $20; there’s a good wine list and some smart matches on the menu. Lunches and breakfasts will cost you $10 to $15 per person.
No, it’s not worth a visit to the greater Detroit/Flint/Ann Arbor/Lansing-ish region just for a meal there. But if you find yourself in that part of the country, it’s worth a special trip. Map.
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Great martinis! I recommend the Vesper.
Also try a Sazerac! One of the few places outside of New Orleans that offers this exquisite cocktail!
Alice Waters is not the founder of the French Laundry in Napa. Thomas Keller is the owner/chef there. Alice is the owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, another great restaurant.
Just thought I’d give an update. I’m not sure if the “French Laundry” in Fenton got in trouble for using that name or not, but they have now shortened their name to just “The Laundry”. It still has the same great food just with a slightly different name!